Leheria and Bandhani Suits
There is a magical quality about Bandhini: vibrant colours, arresting combinations, dramatic swirls and twirls. “Bandhini” derives its name from the Hindi word Bandhan which means ties, relation and therefore tying up. bandhani is an ancient art practiced mainly in Western India.
Bandhini is a Rajasthani art of tying small dots on fabric with a continuous thread and dyeing it. The result is a vibrant and irregular mix of vermillion and saffron, emerald and sapphire or aqua and yellow. Interestingly, the art of tying involves the use of a long finger nail, which is used to pick that portion of the fabric which has to be tied.
Some of the finished clothing in the form of turbans, dupattas, and sarees come with embroidered borders sprinkled with glistening mirror work; others come with appliqué and patchwork borders or designs created with Bandhini and Lehariya. The kurtas come with dramatic yokes whilst some dupattas come with borders or tassels. The overall effect is very contemporary, even though the technique used may be traditionally old.
leheriais a traditional style of tie dye practiced in Rajasthan, India that results in brightly colored cloth with distinctive patterns. The technique gets its name from the Rajasthani word for wave because the dyeing technique is often used to produce complex wave patterns.
Leharia is distinguished by the natural, ripple effect in attention-grabbing colors, using a color resist dyeing technique. The wavy, diagonal stripes created through this technique look bewitching in brilliant color combinations.
leheriawas patronized in the nineteenth and early twentieth century by the local traders and merchants who wore turbans of bright leheriafabric.
These are harmoniously arranged diagonal stripes, which were originally, dyed in the auspicious colors of yellow and red. Dyeing is accomplished by the tie-resist method in Leharia where the patterns are made up of countless waves respectively.
The material is rolled diagonally and certain portions resisted by lightly binding threads at a short distance from one another before the cloth is dyed. If the distance is shorter, then greater skill is required in preventing one color from spilling into the other. The process of dyeing is repeated until the requisite number of colors is obtained.
"The famous leheria(zigzag pattern of irregular color stripes) is a visual invocation of the flow of water at the same time painstakingly showing the depths of indigo after multiple mud-resistant and dyeing processes. No small wonder that the blues in leheriya attract the eyes instinctively."
Rajasthan is famous for its bandhani and Leheriya styles of sarees, these are essentially made by tie-and-dye techniques.
Tie-and-dye is a method processed in two steps, first is tying the length of cloth and then dipping it in the color.
While bandhani results in dots of varying sizes depending upon the pattern, Leheriya is basically a striped pattern which occasionally results in zig zag stripes which is also based on the way the fabric is folded and dyed.
A Leheriya Saree with vertical stripes would make shorter women look tall and slim while a Leheriya Saree featuring horizontal stripes or horizontal zig zag stripes would look fabulous on tall and graceful women.
At the same time, leheriaSaree featuring diagonal stripes is the most flattering as they suit most body types.
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